Please forgive the cross-posting: this is VERY important!
If you have been reading many of the sewing and craft blogs and websites, you may already be aware of a new law to be enacted in February of next year. This law will require that anything used in production of a product to be used by children under the age of 12 MUST be tested for safety, and bear a label stating that it has passed these tests.
This law will effectively put small manufacturers out of business, as the testing is cost-prohibitive. What you may not realize is that grandmas and home sewers who make items as GIFTS will also be liable to comply with the law.
This legislation could have a negative effect on the sewing industry as a whole. Fabric suppliers, threads suppliers, notions suppliers and sewing machine vendors will all be held liable for testing. The law will also have an effect on any business or entity that deals with any children under the age of 12: schools, daycare institutions, churches, even children's gymnasiums or after-school activity classes such as recreational sports.
Please read Kathleen Fassanella's excellent blog, www.fashion-incubator.com , for further updates and information. And please, contact your congressman and let them know of our concerns.
Monday, December 22, 2008
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Cute free pattern!
http://www.lazygirldesigns.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/lazy_girl_designs_noriko_handbag1.pdf
This pattern is for the Lazy Girl Designs' Noriko Handbag...totally free!
Shannon
This pattern is for the Lazy Girl Designs' Noriko Handbag...totally free!
Shannon
Thursday, December 11, 2008
January meeting....we have homework!
Be sure to have your squares cut for the January meeting. Shirley suggests that we further prepare by doing the following: stack an outer square and an inner square on top of each other. Stitch an "x" from corner to corner, using a lengthened machine stitch. Do this for all 40-plus four inch squares.
Be sure to bring your machines, sewing supplies, and an extension cord if you have one.
See you in January!
Shannon
Be sure to bring your machines, sewing supplies, and an extension cord if you have one.
See you in January!
Shannon
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Holiday part tomorrow!
Be sure to join us for the holiday party tomorrow! If you have not received the email with directions to my house, send me a private message.
Shannon
Shannon
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
New Web TV show!
Starring none other than Sandra Betzina! The show will be fee-based, but you can sign up for a free month trial. NAYY.....
www.sandrabetzina.com
www.sandrabetzina.com
Monday, November 17, 2008
Cool stuff
If you are not familiar with Nancy Shriber's sashiko work, you'll enjoy her website:
http://www.contemporarysashiko.com
Take a look at the projects page; there are two simple pieces that would be perfect for gift-giving.
Shannon
http://www.contemporarysashiko.com
Take a look at the projects page; there are two simple pieces that would be perfect for gift-giving.
Shannon
Friday, November 7, 2008
Santa bag

Snowman
Andrea Duckworth
RST- Right sides together
WST- Wrong sides together
1. Trace your template on 2 fabric and 2 lining pieces.
2. Iron your interfacing on 2 lining pieces.
3. Cut out fabric and lining.
4. Pin 1 fabric and 1 lining piece RST. Do the same for the other fabric and lining piece. About 1/3 from the top (on the side) mark this top with a pen or a marker. Do the same on the other side. Sew between the marks ON THE TOP with ¼” seam. Lock your stitches. Make a clip just below the seam. Clip about every inch to the seam line so it will lay flat. Do the same for the other pinned piece. Turn and press.
5. To measure for the gusset: on 1of these pieces measure around the circle on the un-sewn edge from clip to clip. Add 1” for side fold-over. (Mine was 4”wide). Cut out 1 fabric and 1 lining this measurement (don’t forget to add 1”). Cut out 1 interfacing minus 2” (to avoid bulk in the fold-over). Fuse your interfacing to the lining. Place fabric and lining piece WST. Fold each side down ½’ on wrong side and sew close to cut edge.
6. Measure for your handle. Mine was the same as the gusset and 3” wide. Cut 1 handle this measurement. If you want interfacing, cut 1 of those too. (I didn’t interface mine). Fold in half RST. Sew long side with ¼” seam. Turn and press. Press the short sides to right side about ½”.
7. Pin right side of handle to wrong side of gusset on each side. Sew just above gusset seam line. (I used a zigzag stitch but that is not necessary.)
8. Clip gusset about every inch- ¼” deep on both unfinished sides. Pin front and 1 side of gusset above clip RST. Sew with 3/8” seam making sure you don’t sew the handle. Attach the back the same way. Turn right side out. Finger press the corners.
9. Cut out 2 hats and 1 interfacing for the hat. Attach interfacing to wrong side of 1 hat. Sew hats RST with ¼” seam making sure you leave an opening for turning. Clip corners. Turn. Fold under ¼’ at the opening, press. Topstitch 1/8” around hat.
10.Glue hat in place: then eyes (I used 1 1/8” buttons), nose, and mouth (I used different buttons none larger than ½”). Put a little blush for cheeks if you want!
11. Enjoy!
Santa bag
Santa Bag
Andrea Duckworth
RST- Right sides together
WST- Wrong sides together
1. Determine the size of your bag. Add ½” to the width of your measurement and ¼” to the length. (Ex: You want a bag 8”W X 10”L. Your fabric would be 8 ½” X 10 ¼”).
2. Cut 2 pieces of fabric the correct measurements for the front and back,
3. Cut 1 gusset the length times 2, plus the width of your cut fabric. (Ex. If your fabric is 8 ½” X 10 ¼”, your gusset would be 29” long.) The width I usually use is 3 ½”. So your gusset piece would measure 29” long by 3 ½” wide.
4. With RST, sew gusset to 1 long side of bag with ¼” seam. Stop ¼” before the end of bag. Leaving the needle down in the fabric, life the presser foot and clip the corner of the bag at an angle. Clip the gusset piece also. Pivot the fabric to short side. Continue sewing around bag, clipping and pivoting at next corner. Turn and press. You may need to clip corners more to get them to lay flat.
5. Determine where you want your belt to be. On the right side of the fabric, place the belt on the un-sewn edge. Pin. Continue pinning belt around to meet the other side. If you use a buckle, don’t forget to put it on the middle front. Make sure you measure from the top or bottom so the belt will be straight! Also make sure the seams are sewn the way pressed them.
6. Sew the belt down as close to both edges as possible.
7. Sew the other side of the gusset as before. Turn and press.
8. Trim the top of the bag so it is even all the way around. Fold down so the raw edge is on the outside. Press.
9. Sew the “fur” trim on outside all the way around. I used a zigzag stitch.
10. Enjoy!
Andrea Duckworth
RST- Right sides together
WST- Wrong sides together
1. Determine the size of your bag. Add ½” to the width of your measurement and ¼” to the length. (Ex: You want a bag 8”W X 10”L. Your fabric would be 8 ½” X 10 ¼”).
2. Cut 2 pieces of fabric the correct measurements for the front and back,
3. Cut 1 gusset the length times 2, plus the width of your cut fabric. (Ex. If your fabric is 8 ½” X 10 ¼”, your gusset would be 29” long.) The width I usually use is 3 ½”. So your gusset piece would measure 29” long by 3 ½” wide.
4. With RST, sew gusset to 1 long side of bag with ¼” seam. Stop ¼” before the end of bag. Leaving the needle down in the fabric, life the presser foot and clip the corner of the bag at an angle. Clip the gusset piece also. Pivot the fabric to short side. Continue sewing around bag, clipping and pivoting at next corner. Turn and press. You may need to clip corners more to get them to lay flat.
5. Determine where you want your belt to be. On the right side of the fabric, place the belt on the un-sewn edge. Pin. Continue pinning belt around to meet the other side. If you use a buckle, don’t forget to put it on the middle front. Make sure you measure from the top or bottom so the belt will be straight! Also make sure the seams are sewn the way pressed them.
6. Sew the belt down as close to both edges as possible.
7. Sew the other side of the gusset as before. Turn and press.
8. Trim the top of the bag so it is even all the way around. Fold down so the raw edge is on the outside. Press.
9. Sew the “fur” trim on outside all the way around. I used a zigzag stitch.
10. Enjoy!
Envelope gift bag
Envelope
Andrea Duckworth
1. Determine the size of you envelope. Add ½” to the sides ( width) for seam allowance. Cut 1 piece of fabric that is the width and 3 times the length. ( Ex: You want an envelope 12” X 10”. Your fabric piece would be 12 ½” X 20”.)
2. Turn under 1 short edge ¼”, press. Turn under ¼”again, press and sew close to edge.
3. Starting from the bottom (the edge you just finished) fold the fabric RST up until you have 1/3 of the fabric left for the flap.
4. Sew ¼” seam on both sides. Turn and press.
5. The third that is left, fold like you are wrapping a present: Starting at the corner of the envelope, fold the fabric over. Do the same on the other side. Fold over the raw edges and sew as close to the edge as you can. If you had to “tuck in” the flap you can glue that down.
6. If you want to put in a buttonhole, place it near the point. Or you can glue a button on the point and us Velcro as a fastener instead. I put a tassel on the button to dress it up. Decorate it however you want.
7. Enjoy!
Andrea Duckworth
1. Determine the size of you envelope. Add ½” to the sides ( width) for seam allowance. Cut 1 piece of fabric that is the width and 3 times the length. ( Ex: You want an envelope 12” X 10”. Your fabric piece would be 12 ½” X 20”.)
2. Turn under 1 short edge ¼”, press. Turn under ¼”again, press and sew close to edge.
3. Starting from the bottom (the edge you just finished) fold the fabric RST up until you have 1/3 of the fabric left for the flap.
4. Sew ¼” seam on both sides. Turn and press.
5. The third that is left, fold like you are wrapping a present: Starting at the corner of the envelope, fold the fabric over. Do the same on the other side. Fold over the raw edges and sew as close to the edge as you can. If you had to “tuck in” the flap you can glue that down.
6. If you want to put in a buttonhole, place it near the point. Or you can glue a button on the point and us Velcro as a fastener instead. I put a tassel on the button to dress it up. Decorate it however you want.
7. Enjoy!
Gift Bag with Tie
Gift Bag with Attached Tie
Andrea Duckworth
1. Determine the size of your gift bag.
2. Make a “Magic Pillowcase”. I made mine without the flange.
3. Before you sew the sides, fold your tie in half and put the fold in the seam allowances about ½” below the cuff.
4. Enjoy!
Andrea Duckworth
1. Determine the size of your gift bag.
2. Make a “Magic Pillowcase”. I made mine without the flange.
3. Before you sew the sides, fold your tie in half and put the fold in the seam allowances about ½” below the cuff.
4. Enjoy!
Gift Bag with Tie
Gift Bag with Attached Tie
Andrea Duckworth
1. Determine the size of your gift bag.
2. Make a “Magic Pillowcase”. I made mine without the flange.
3. Before you sew the sides, fold your tie in half and put the fold in the seam allowances about ½” below the cuff.
4. Enjoy!
Andrea Duckworth
1. Determine the size of your gift bag.
2. Make a “Magic Pillowcase”. I made mine without the flange.
3. Before you sew the sides, fold your tie in half and put the fold in the seam allowances about ½” below the cuff.
4. Enjoy!
Magic pillowcase
Cutting Instructions:
For the Body: Cut a piece of fabric 27” X 40” for regular siz pillowcase (33” X 40” king)
For the cuff: Cut a piece of fabric 9” X 40”.
For the trim: Cut a piece of fabric 2”X 40”.
Construction:
Press the cuff. Press the trim in half with wrong sides together.
Lay the cuff out flat, right side up.
Place the body piece on top of the cuff (40”) right side up.
Line up raw edges.
Fold trim in half, match to raw edge of stack. Pin in place.
Pin together along raw edge- about every 6”.
Fold trim in half, wrong sides together. Pin in place on top of stack, matching raw edges.
Roll the body up past the middle of the cuff.
Bring the bottom of the cuff up and over the body and pin to the raw edges. Pin at each end, then the middle and work out. This will keep the edges straight.
Sew ¼” seam: turn right side out and press.
Fold in half right sides out. Sew around raw edges with less than ¼” seam.
Turn wrong side out. Press.
Sew around 2 sides again with greater that a ¼”.
Turn and press.
For the Body: Cut a piece of fabric 27” X 40” for regular siz pillowcase (33” X 40” king)
For the cuff: Cut a piece of fabric 9” X 40”.
For the trim: Cut a piece of fabric 2”X 40”.
Construction:
Press the cuff. Press the trim in half with wrong sides together.
Lay the cuff out flat, right side up.
Place the body piece on top of the cuff (40”) right side up.
Line up raw edges.
Fold trim in half, match to raw edge of stack. Pin in place.
Pin together along raw edge- about every 6”.
Fold trim in half, wrong sides together. Pin in place on top of stack, matching raw edges.
Roll the body up past the middle of the cuff.
Bring the bottom of the cuff up and over the body and pin to the raw edges. Pin at each end, then the middle and work out. This will keep the edges straight.
Sew ¼” seam: turn right side out and press.
Fold in half right sides out. Sew around raw edges with less than ¼” seam.
Turn wrong side out. Press.
Sew around 2 sides again with greater that a ¼”.
Turn and press.
Gift Card Holder
Gift- Card Holder
Andrea Duckworth
1. Cut 2 pieces of felt 2 ¾” X 4 ¼”. Cut 1 stiff interfacing (ex. Timtex)
2. Cut 1 different color piece of felt 3 ½” X 2 ½”.
3. If you want a hangar: Cut a 6” piece of ribbon or trim
4. “Sandwich” with felt, interfacing, (if you are using a hangar, form your trim into a loop. Place this at the top or short side. Have the raw edges about ½” on the “inside”) and finish with felt on top. Sew as close to the edge as you can all the way around making sure your hangar doesn’t get “hung up” J
5. Make a “cut-out” on the different colored felt.
6. Cut out a piece of netting smaller than the different colored felt.
7. Place the net on the back of the different colored felt.
8. Position the netting and different colored felt piece on top of the sewn ones. They should be just above the seam line on the bottom and equal on the sides.
9. Sew as close to the edge as you can on the 2 long sides and the bottom. Make sure the felt is sewn down.
10. Decorate with sequins, glitter, fabric paint, etc.
11. Enjoy!
Andrea Duckworth
1. Cut 2 pieces of felt 2 ¾” X 4 ¼”. Cut 1 stiff interfacing (ex. Timtex)
2. Cut 1 different color piece of felt 3 ½” X 2 ½”.
3. If you want a hangar: Cut a 6” piece of ribbon or trim
4. “Sandwich” with felt, interfacing, (if you are using a hangar, form your trim into a loop. Place this at the top or short side. Have the raw edges about ½” on the “inside”) and finish with felt on top. Sew as close to the edge as you can all the way around making sure your hangar doesn’t get “hung up” J
5. Make a “cut-out” on the different colored felt.
6. Cut out a piece of netting smaller than the different colored felt.
7. Place the net on the back of the different colored felt.
8. Position the netting and different colored felt piece on top of the sewn ones. They should be just above the seam line on the bottom and equal on the sides.
9. Sew as close to the edge as you can on the 2 long sides and the bottom. Make sure the felt is sewn down.
10. Decorate with sequins, glitter, fabric paint, etc.
11. Enjoy!
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
Tie Bag
Directions for making Tie Bags
These small bags fit inside a small stuff bag (made from the wide end of a tie). They are perfect for carrying in your purse to use as a shopping bag instead of a plastic bag. All proceeds from the sale of these bags go toward programs that help the homeless at the Outreach and Advocacy Center, Atlanta, GA.
Instructions for making bags:
Fold one piece of precut fabric (ripstop nylon a.k.a. parachute cloth), right sides together, to make a rectangle 15” x 18”. Stitch the long sides using ½ inch seams. (If you are not using precut pieces, begin by cutting a strip of ripstop fabric 36” long x 18” wide. Fold lengthwise to make the 15”x18” rectangle.)

Trim excess threads off the seams and turn the bag inside out. Stitch these same sides again, covering rough edges and making seams doubly strong. (Note: You are making French seams.)
Turn under top edge ½ inch. Stitch Turn under this top edge and stitch again, creating a clean top edge.

The handles and stuff bag
Cut the bottom 14 inches off the wide V end of the tie. Set this aside for the stuff bag.

Take the remaining tie piece and cut it into two equal pieces for the handles. If the seam down the center of the tie is not sewn securely, topstitch for strength.

Pin one handle piece to one side of the big bag, placing the ends about two inches from either side. Repeat with other handle piece. Use a zigzag stitch and go over each piece at least 2 times, making sure that the handles are securely attached. Handles can go either to the inside or the outside of the bag. Trim excess threads and fabric close to the stitching, being careful not to cut threads.
(Note: We have made a slight change to this particular instruction. Place the handles right sides together with the outside of the bag, with the raw edge of the tie at the upper edge of the bag. Stitch ¼” from the raw edge of the handle. Flip the handle into final position and topstitch again, ¼” from the fold of the handle. This makes a neater, stronger edge. )


Stitch the loose fabric on the back of the tie on the big V. Stitch one piece of Velcro to the INSIDE, one inch from the V. Stitch the other matching piece to the OUTSIDE one inch from the flat end.


Take the big V piece of tie. Place inside the bag, between the two handle pieces. The wrong side of the tie faces the interior of the bag. Line the flat edge up slightly lower than the top of the big bag. Zigzag stitch in place. Trim excess threads and fabric.

Fold the flat end up 3 ½-4 inches from bottom (narrower ties need a deeper bag). Leave the big V to serve as a flap. Stitch sides with a straight stitch, as close to the edge as possible. Be sure that the seams are secure.
Stuff the big bag and one handle into the small bag. Leave the other handle out for carrying your reusable little shopping bag everywhere you go!
These small bags fit inside a small stuff bag (made from the wide end of a tie). They are perfect for carrying in your purse to use as a shopping bag instead of a plastic bag. All proceeds from the sale of these bags go toward programs that help the homeless at the Outreach and Advocacy Center, Atlanta, GA.
Instructions for making bags:
Fold one piece of precut fabric (ripstop nylon a.k.a. parachute cloth), right sides together, to make a rectangle 15” x 18”. Stitch the long sides using ½ inch seams. (If you are not using precut pieces, begin by cutting a strip of ripstop fabric 36” long x 18” wide. Fold lengthwise to make the 15”x18” rectangle.)

Trim excess threads off the seams and turn the bag inside out. Stitch these same sides again, covering rough edges and making seams doubly strong. (Note: You are making French seams.)
Turn under top edge ½ inch. Stitch Turn under this top edge and stitch again, creating a clean top edge.

The handles and stuff bag
Cut the bottom 14 inches off the wide V end of the tie. Set this aside for the stuff bag.

Take the remaining tie piece and cut it into two equal pieces for the handles. If the seam down the center of the tie is not sewn securely, topstitch for strength.

Pin one handle piece to one side of the big bag, placing the ends about two inches from either side. Repeat with other handle piece. Use a zigzag stitch and go over each piece at least 2 times, making sure that the handles are securely attached. Handles can go either to the inside or the outside of the bag. Trim excess threads and fabric close to the stitching, being careful not to cut threads.
(Note: We have made a slight change to this particular instruction. Place the handles right sides together with the outside of the bag, with the raw edge of the tie at the upper edge of the bag. Stitch ¼” from the raw edge of the handle. Flip the handle into final position and topstitch again, ¼” from the fold of the handle. This makes a neater, stronger edge. )


Stitch the loose fabric on the back of the tie on the big V. Stitch one piece of Velcro to the INSIDE, one inch from the V. Stitch the other matching piece to the OUTSIDE one inch from the flat end.


Take the big V piece of tie. Place inside the bag, between the two handle pieces. The wrong side of the tie faces the interior of the bag. Line the flat edge up slightly lower than the top of the big bag. Zigzag stitch in place. Trim excess threads and fabric.

Fold the flat end up 3 ½-4 inches from bottom (narrower ties need a deeper bag). Leave the big V to serve as a flap. Stitch sides with a straight stitch, as close to the edge as possible. Be sure that the seams are secure.
Stuff the big bag and one handle into the small bag. Leave the other handle out for carrying your reusable little shopping bag everywhere you go!
Friday, October 31, 2008
Thursday, October 23, 2008
January program---Be Prepared!
January 2009 - Rag Purse
You will need
40 - 4" squares and 1- 8" square for the outside
40 - 4" sqiares amd 1- 8" square for the linning
40 - 4" squares and 1-8" square of flannel
2 pc of fabric 26"x4" for the handles and the same amount of interfacing
1 pc of fabric 12x12" for the inside pocket
Machine, (just straight stitching) thread, scissors etc.
We will talk more at Christmas Party. In your spare time you may want to cut the squares. Any color or mix up colors. Linning can all be the same.
You will need
40 - 4" squares and 1- 8" square for the outside
40 - 4" sqiares amd 1- 8" square for the linning
40 - 4" squares and 1-8" square of flannel
2 pc of fabric 26"x4" for the handles and the same amount of interfacing
1 pc of fabric 12x12" for the inside pocket
Machine, (just straight stitching) thread, scissors etc.
We will talk more at Christmas Party. In your spare time you may want to cut the squares. Any color or mix up colors. Linning can all be the same.
Thursday, October 16, 2008
Linda's memory board

Here are the instructions for the memory board Linda brought yesterday.
Materials and supplies:
One 16x20 stretched artist's canvas
One 20 x 24 piece of fabric
One 16 x 20 piece of high loft batting
One 18 x 22 piece of muslin for backing
4 1/2 yard ribbon
5 shank buttons
5 flat buttons
Heavy-duty upholstery thread
Tapestry needle
Staple gun
Fabric glue
Instructions:
Stack batting layers on top of artist's canvas. Place fabric rectangle over the canvas and batting; carefully turn the stack. Using the staple gun, begin stapling the cotton fabric to the underside of the artist's canvas. Staple all four sides at the center of each side, pulling the fabric taut but not tight. Work toward the corners, stapling every inch or so. Carefully fold the fabric around each corner, mitering fabric to fit. Staple to secure.
Begin attaching ribbon by stapling to the back side of the memory board. Start by stapling one strip of ribbon diagonally from corner to corner. Pull the ribbon taught but not tight. Staple at opposite end. Add a second ribon diagonal to make a large "X". Add four more strips of ribbon, running them parallel to the first pair of ribbons to create a criss-cross pattern at center of each side of the board. Staple each ribbon on the back side of the memory board.
To attach buttons, thread needle with upholstery thread. Insert needle through one hole of the flat button, then from the back of the canvas to the front at the intersection of each ribon pair. Thread the needle through the shank button, then back through the canvas and the flat button. Tie the ends of the thread tightly. The two buttons will "sandwich" the canvas, batting, fabric and ribbons. Repeat at the other intersections between the ribbons.
Neatly finish back fo board with one 18 x 22 piece of muslin, with edges folded under about an inch on all sides to fit slightly smaller than the back of the board. Fabric glue will seal and hold backing in place.
Materials and supplies:
One 16x20 stretched artist's canvas
One 20 x 24 piece of fabric
One 16 x 20 piece of high loft batting
One 18 x 22 piece of muslin for backing
4 1/2 yard ribbon
5 shank buttons
5 flat buttons
Heavy-duty upholstery thread
Tapestry needle
Staple gun
Fabric glue
Instructions:
Stack batting layers on top of artist's canvas. Place fabric rectangle over the canvas and batting; carefully turn the stack. Using the staple gun, begin stapling the cotton fabric to the underside of the artist's canvas. Staple all four sides at the center of each side, pulling the fabric taut but not tight. Work toward the corners, stapling every inch or so. Carefully fold the fabric around each corner, mitering fabric to fit. Staple to secure.
Begin attaching ribbon by stapling to the back side of the memory board. Start by stapling one strip of ribbon diagonally from corner to corner. Pull the ribbon taught but not tight. Staple at opposite end. Add a second ribon diagonal to make a large "X". Add four more strips of ribbon, running them parallel to the first pair of ribbons to create a criss-cross pattern at center of each side of the board. Staple each ribbon on the back side of the memory board.
To attach buttons, thread needle with upholstery thread. Insert needle through one hole of the flat button, then from the back of the canvas to the front at the intersection of each ribon pair. Thread the needle through the shank button, then back through the canvas and the flat button. Tie the ends of the thread tightly. The two buttons will "sandwich" the canvas, batting, fabric and ribbons. Repeat at the other intersections between the ribbons.
Neatly finish back fo board with one 18 x 22 piece of muslin, with edges folded under about an inch on all sides to fit slightly smaller than the back of the board. Fabric glue will seal and hold backing in place.
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
Okay girls....
Here you go!
In order to post directly to this blog, first contact me with your email address. I will send you an invitation, which you must accept. At that point, you can post here, upload photos, brag on your accomplishments, whatever you like.
The only guidelines I will suggest are these:
Keep your posts sewing related.
Be nice (like I have to worry about that with you guys....).
Shannon
In order to post directly to this blog, first contact me with your email address. I will send you an invitation, which you must accept. At that point, you can post here, upload photos, brag on your accomplishments, whatever you like.
The only guidelines I will suggest are these:
Keep your posts sewing related.
Be nice (like I have to worry about that with you guys....).
Shannon
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